How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE 
Author Message
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE
How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
http://www.***.com/

2010 BCE , all metal WAS very much  more valuable
http://www.***.com/
http://www.***.com/
Molten filings can be recovered easily , and always have been
http://www.***.com/ #5477....
.
The Color of GOLD varies heaps , see wiki link
Different colors of Ag-Au-Cu alloys
http://www.***.com/ :Ag-Au-Cu-colours-english.svg
PURE , Gold dust,  extracted by Aqua Regina
http://www.***.com/ :Golddust.jpg
http://www.***.com/ #5477...
.
   Common colored gold alloys such as rose gold can be created by the
addition of various amounts of copper and silver, as indicated in the
triangular diagram above link.

  Alloys containing palladium or nickel are also important in
commercial jewelry as these produce white gold alloys.

   Less commonly, addition of manganese, aluminium, iron, indium and
other elements can produce more unusual colors of gold for various
applications.[4]
.

Interesting shapes can be seen in Californian gold nuggets
http://www.***.com/ :Nugsrandt.jpg
Native gold Nuggets
http://www.***.com/ :Native_gold_nuggets.jpg
.
The famous " welcome stranger , was very big
http://www.***.com/
   "Welcome Stranger" was the name given to the largest alluvial gold
nugget found in the world, with a calculated refined weight was 2,283
oz 6dwts 9 gr.[1]

   It measured 61 cm (24 inches) by 31 cm (12.2 inches), and was
discovered by John Deason and Richard Oates at Moliagul, Victoria,
Australia  on 5 February 1869 about 9 miles north-west of Dunolly.
   Found only 2 inches (5 centimetres) below the surface on a slope
leading to what was then known as Bulldog Gully. Its gross weight was
3523.5 troy ounces, the trimmed weight was 2520 troy ounces, and net
it weighed 2315.5 troy ounces or 72.02 kg.
  The goldfields warden F. K. Orme reported 2268 ounces 10 dwt 14
grains (70.5591 kg) of smelted gold obtained from it (97.9% of the
total weight), irrespective of scraps that were given away by the
finders, estimated as totalling another 47 ounces 7 dwt.



Tue, 20 Nov 2012 22:44:16 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:

> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
> http://www.***.com/

My sharpening systems:

Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

http://www.***.com/

The Smith's pocket sharpener you referred to, Smith's 2 Step Knife
Sharpener, SM-CCKS. (I have two of the Smith's, a very similar Fiskars; and
a smaller Smith's with a serration-sharpening rattail file):

http://www.***.com/

Smith's Sharpening Rods (the link is to a similar-looking system; mine
doesn't have the cool turn-box, and has longer rods) (This is my current
favorite):

http://www.***.com/

Or: http://www.***.com/

Smith's Tri-Hone Arkansas stone system SM-TRI6 (with synthetic coarse stone):

http://www.***.com/

And my most ambitious system is a Lansky variable angle system. I have added
a turquoise super-fine stone to this system:

http://www.***.com/

In addition I've made a couple of leather strops on 1"x4" pine boards with
s{*filter*}leather Gorilla-glued to the wood, then slathered with automotive
rubbing compound for the final, fine abrasive polishing. With the above
sharpening systems, I get my blades hair-popping sharp. With the final
stropping, I get smooth edges that shave like a razor.

BTW, not a single one of these systems involves the kind of groove you
mention. Even the cheapo pocket sharpener you mention has two rods off-set
from each other to create a perfect "V" shape; and that system gradually
loses effectiveness as the rods are used, as the angle they make becomes
greater as the rods wear. So, as others have said, the stone you have would
tend to dull rather than sharpen a blade.

And, of course, copper and bronze edges would have been maintained by
peening, not by abrading. If a final abrading were needed, a flat stone
would work; a grooved stone would make all the peening and abrading lost effort.

<snip>
--
Tom



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 01:43:02 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:

> My sharpening systems:

> Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

> http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpenersm-dcs4.html

I've got one of those too, got mine at Walmart,  but for weed-wacker
work,
way to slow. OK for a knife though.


Wed, 21 Nov 2012 03:16:59 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:



>>> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
>>> http://www.***.com/
>> My sharpening systems:

>> Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

>> http://www.***.com/

>> The Smith's pocket sharpener you referred to, Smith's 2 Step Knife
>> Sharpener, SM-CCKS. (I have two of the Smith's, a very similar Fiskars; and
>> a smaller Smith's with a serration-sharpening rattail file):

>> http://www.***.com/

>> Smith's Sharpening Rods (the link is to a similar-looking system; mine
>> doesn't have the cool turn-box, and has longer rods) (This is my current
>> favorite):

>> http://www.***.com/

>> Or: http://www.***.com/

>> Smith's Tri-Hone Arkansas stone system SM-TRI6 (with synthetic coarse stone):

>> http://www.***.com/

>> And my most ambitious system is a Lansky variable angle system. I have added
>> a turquoise super-fine stone to this system:

>> http://www.***.com/

>> In addition I've made a couple of leather strops on 1"x4" pine boards with
>> s{*filter*}leather Gorilla-glued to the wood, then slathered with automotive
>> rubbing compound for the final, fine abrasive polishing. With the above
>> sharpening systems, I get my blades hair-popping sharp. With the final
>> stropping, I get smooth edges that shave like a razor.

> Gee mate that GREAT

> Kanga KNOWS how to sharpen a knife

> my main interest is HOW it was done 2000 years BCE
>> BTW, not a single one of these systems involves the kind of groove you
>> mention. Even the cheapo pocket sharpener you mention has two rods off-set
>> from each other to create a perfect "V" shape; and that system gradually
>> loses effectiveness as the rods are used, as the angle they make becomes
>> greater as the rods wear. So, as others have said, the stone you have would
>> tend to dull rather than sharpen a blade.

> You LOSE  on this one TOM

> a blade 2500 years ago can be sharpened using the EXACT same science
> principles  as TODAY

> This works today same as it did 2000 BCE , its not rocket science ,
> but the PRINCIPLES of forming an edge remain the SAME
> Assume they had taken metals and shaped them into a blade tool

> DRAG the blade through a V shaped slot
> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
> http://www.***.com/

> 2010 BCE , all metal WAS very much  more valuable
> http://www.***.com/

> SOME blades may require MORE finishing on a FLAT stone

> SOME may require what we call " Steeling " the knife in Australia
> http://www.***.com/
> A metal "STEEL" is a one sided V in principle action on the metal
> blade , often holding the blade at the same angle seen in the V shape
> sharpeners
> One holds the knifes upright , the other holds the steel upright see
> pic for angles

> Some may require a " Strop '

>> And, of course, copper and bronze edges would have been maintained by
>> peening, not by abrading. If a final abrading were needed, a flat stone
>> would work; a grooved stone would make all the peening and abrading lost effort.

> WELL of COURSE if YOU say so TOM

> you clearly are an expert a sharpening tools mate

> I see you can READ real good mate

How many copper and bronze swords have you sharpened, mate?

--
Tom



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 04:07:44 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:

>> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
>> http://www.***.com/

> My sharpening systems:

> Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

> http://www.***.com/

> The Smith's pocket sharpener you referred to, Smith's 2 Step Knife
> Sharpener, SM-CCKS. (I have two of the Smith's, a very similar Fiskars; and
> a smaller Smith's with a serration-sharpening rattail file):

> http://www.***.com/

> Smith's Sharpening Rods (the link is to a similar-looking system; mine
> doesn't have the cool turn-box, and has longer rods) (This is my current
> favorite):

> http://www.***.com/

> Or: http://www.***.com/

> Smith's Tri-Hone Arkansas stone system SM-TRI6 (with synthetic coarse stone):

> http://www.***.com/

How did pre-industrial folk ever manage?  ;))

Quote:
> And my most ambitious system is a Lansky variable angle system. I have added
> a turquoise super-fine stone to this system:

> http://www.***.com/

That gives me a Google 'The requested URL [...] was not found on this
server.'

Quote:
> In addition I've made a couple of leather strops on 1"x4" pine boards with
> s{*filter*}leather Gorilla-glued to the wood, then slathered with automotive
> rubbing compound for the final, fine abrasive polishing. With the above
> sharpening systems, I get my blades hair-popping sharp. With the final
> stropping, I get smooth edges that shave like a razor.

I save that degree of finish for my razor.

Quote:
> BTW, not a single one of these systems involves the kind of groove you
> mention. Even the cheapo pocket sharpener you mention has two rods off-set
> from each other to create a perfect "V" shape; and that system gradually
> loses effectiveness as the rods are used, as the angle they make becomes
> greater as the rods wear. So, as others have said, the stone you have would
> tend to dull rather than sharpen a blade.

I'm glad I'm not the only one to thingk that!

Quote:
> And, of course, copper and bronze edges would have been maintained by
> peening, not by abrading. If a final abrading were needed, a flat stone
> would work; a grooved stone would make all the peening and abrading lost
> effort.

> <snip>

Quite.

I wonder if there is a difference in the type of steel between the knives
you are using and the ones I'm accustomed to?  

I find that routine use of  a steel is all the 'sharpening' a knife needs
in normal use
< http://www.***.com/ ;.  (That
demo is for a kitchen knife; a 'camping' or 'gardening' knife would have a
bevel more like 45 degrees for general use, and a hatchet or axe even  more
- but they'd usually go straight to the whet-stone anyway).

I have got a 'Swiss Army Knife' (Victorinox) that came with its own
whet-stone though, and that one doesn't seem to take well to the steel.  I
think the metal of its blades is significantly harder and more
'crystalline' than my other knives.  (I don't trust folding knives, so its
normal cutting blades don't get heavy use; the chisel, saw, file, pliers,
scissors, and screw-drivers, however, are very useful for those little
jobs that pop up).

--
-- ^^^^^^^^^^
--  Whiskers
-- ~~~~~~~~~~



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 04:09:01 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:



>>> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
>>> http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sharpen-a-knife-properly/.
>> My sharpening systems:

>> Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

>> http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpenersm-dcs4.html

>> The Smith's pocket sharpener you referred to, Smith's 2 Step Knife
>> Sharpener, SM-CCKS. (I have two of the Smith's, a very similar Fiskars; and
>> a smaller Smith's with a serration-sharpening rattail file):

>> http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpener-sm-ccks.html

>> Smith's Sharpening Rods (the link is to a similar-looking system; mine
>> doesn't have the cool turn-box, and has longer rods) (This is my current
>> favorite):

>> http://www.sharpenem.com/Ceramic-And-Crock-Sticks/Standard-Turnbox-Cr...

>> Or: http://tinyurl.com/27xmgkl

>> Smith's Tri-Hone Arkansas stone system SM-TRI6 (with synthetic coarse stone):

>> http://www.knivesplus.com/smiths-knife-sharpener-sm-tri6.html

> How did pre-industrial folk ever manage?  ;))

>> And my most ambitious system is a Lansky variable angle system. I have added
>> a turquoise super-fine stone to this system:

>> http://tinyurl.com/2cadrox

> That gives me a Google 'The requested URL [...] was not found on this
> server.'

Sorry. Try this:

http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/LKC03.php

<snip>
--
Tom



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 04:34:23 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:



> >>> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
> >>>http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sharpen-a-knife-properly/.
> >> My sharpening systems:

> >> Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

> >>http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpenersm-dcs4.html

> >> The Smith's pocket sharpener you referred to, Smith's 2 Step Knife
> >> Sharpener, SM-CCKS. (I have two of the Smith's, a very similar Fiskars; and
> >> a smaller Smith's with a serration-sharpening rattail file):

> >>http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpener-sm-ccks.html

> >> Smith's Sharpening Rods (the link is to a similar-looking system; mine
> >> doesn't have the cool turn-box, and has longer rods) (This is my current
> >> favorite):

> >>http://www.sharpenem.com/Ceramic-And-Crock-Sticks/Standard-Turnbox-Cr...

> >> Or:http://tinyurl.com/27xmgkl

> >> Smith's Tri-Hone Arkansas stone system SM-TRI6 (with synthetic coarse stone):

> >>http://www.knivesplus.com/smiths-knife-sharpener-sm-tri6.html

> > How did pre-industrial folk ever manage? ?;))

> >> And my most ambitious system is a Lansky variable angle system. I have added
> >> a turquoise super-fine stone to this system:

> >>http://tinyurl.com/2cadrox

> > That gives me a Google 'The requested URL [...] was not found on this
> > server.'

> Sorry. Try this:

> http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/LKC03.php

I just use oilstones, slipstones and steels.


Wed, 21 Nov 2012 04:48:30 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:
> > WELL of COURSE if YOU say so TOM

> > you clearly are an expert a sharpening tools mate

.
> > I see you can READ real good mate

> How many copper and bronze swords have you sharpened, mate?

> --
> Tom

I have sharpened MORE metal blades than you have had meals mate

By hand ,  in the traditional way , steel on stone , every few
minutes , every day for YEARS upon YEARS

I worked at MB meats mutton slaughter floor for 7 years , 5yrs as an
" A Grade Slaughterman "  , 4,200 sheep most days ,  about 20,000
sheep every week .

 Murray Bridge Meats was a very BIG "shed ", we maintained our own
knives "on the run" 2 knives a steel and a STONE the only tools

 its a VERY tough job ,  but being piece work it was VERY profitable
if you could reach the top level ,

  I understand HOW to maintain metal edged tools very well , having
lived in rural parts all my life we NEVER need to ask others to
sharpen ANYTHING for us, you learn that as a boy , axes saws chisels
knives drill bits and all were learned as a child from my father and
grandfather

The length or metal make nil difference , the skills are the same ,
naturally the ANGLES matter and the hardness of stone and metal matter
but not length . metal blades have not change  and never can , the
tools we use to sharpen them with HAVE changed

As you would KNOW if you actually knew anything at all about blade
sharpening MATE

go back and ""play sharp knife games" with the other "little" boys
mate
play my knife is bigger than your knife with the children ,  and leave
the {*filter*}s to deal with the ancient history stuff mate

Im only interested in debate with grown ups

Sounds like you are STUCK in the little boy sage ,  playing a game of
my knife is sharper than your knife , seen hundreds like you mate
probably thousands

A bunch of poofters who clearly have NEVER used a knife to do more
than peel a {*filter*}ING apple

you CLEARLY know nothing about blades and less about knives   so go
play with you mates if you want

There is very CLEARLY  NOTHING you can add to a debate about ANCIENT
weapon sharpening

and Im NOT interested in sharpening modern blades except those I use
to teach my grand kids with

kanga
====



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 04:51:30 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

<snip>

Quote:

> http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/LKC03.php

Yeah, that's the one, but mine is a Smith's Precision
Sharpening Kit brand. Looks about the same.
Then what I did was pop off the hones I didn't like
and glued on the diamond hones from Walmart.
Works OK, but still with the big stuff, one keeps having
to re-set the clamp to another spot.

This site has some clues about bronze swords:
 http://www.bronze-age-swords.com/intro.htm

"The bronze sword was more than a match for the iron,
 both blades received heavy damage. The ability of
bronze to rapidly work harden under impact, and the
lack of carbon in early iron swords must have created
 a bit of a technological stand off around 700bc. At
this time the art of the bronze caster was at its
height and iron working was in its infancy. "



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 05:00:15 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:



>>>> How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE
>>>> http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-sharpen-a-knife-properly/.
>>> My sharpening systems:

>>> Smith's Diamond Combination Knife Sharpener, SM-DCS4 (for car/camping):

>>> http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpenersm-dcs4.html

>>> The Smith's pocket sharpener you referred to, Smith's 2 Step Knife
>>> Sharpener, SM-CCKS. (I have two of the Smith's, a very similar Fiskars; and
>>> a smaller Smith's with a serration-sharpening rattail file):

>>> http://www.knivesplus.com/smithsknifesharpener-sm-ccks.html

>>> Smith's Sharpening Rods (the link is to a similar-looking system; mine
>>> doesn't have the cool turn-box, and has longer rods) (This is my current
>>> favorite):

>>> http://www.sharpenem.com/Ceramic-And-Crock-Sticks/Standard-Turnbox-Cr...

>>> Or: http://tinyurl.com/27xmgkl

>>> Smith's Tri-Hone Arkansas stone system SM-TRI6 (with synthetic coarse stone):

>>> http://www.knivesplus.com/smiths-knife-sharpener-sm-tri6.html

>> How did pre-industrial folk ever manage?  ;))

>>> And my most ambitious system is a Lansky variable angle system. I have added
>>> a turquoise super-fine stone to this system:

>>> http://tinyurl.com/2cadrox

>> That gives me a Google 'The requested URL [...] was not found on this
>> server.'
> Sorry. Try this:
> http://www.lanskysharpeners.com/LKC03.php
> <snip>

"Complete easy-to-follow multi-lingual instructions"

Does that include Bronze Age Egyptian?



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 05:10:12 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:

> <snip>

> > http://www.***.com/

> Yeah, that's the one, but mine is a Smith's Precision
> Sharpening Kit brand. Looks about the same.
> Then what I did was pop off the hones I didn't like
> and glued on the diamond hones from Walmart.
> Works OK, but still with the big stuff, one keeps having
> to re-set the clamp to another spot.

.
> This site has some clues about bronze swords:
> ? http://www.***.com/

Thats a GREAT site , and it HAS a damages bronze age sword

ASK any blade smith how he would repair the damage

EVERYBODY who knows what they are talking ,  about will AGREE

The CHIPS must GO

you simply HEAT it up  then rub it into a V shaped stone to RESHAPE
the edges  ,

 then possibly further dress the edges with a fine stone ,  and
probably re harden the finished article by one of several methods
involving heating and quenching

EXACTLY as seen in my " grinding stone "
http://www.***.com/
, a small amount of metal will be lost , BUT it can easily be
recovered from around he grind stone from time to time  ,  its never
wasted , thats possibly WHY they used a communal sharpening STONE ,
its hard to gather waste fillings from one sword , but a thousand
swords can leave a pile of fillings

BUT dont tell  poor ol TOM

he dont like admitting he knows {*filter*} all about ancient history in
reality

ONLY what he READs

Quote:

> "The bronze sword was more than a match for the iron,
> ?both blades received heavy damage. The ability of
> bronze to rapidly work harden under impact, and the
> lack of carbon in early iron swords must have created
> ?a bit of a technological stand off around 700bc. At
> this time the art of the bronze caster was at its
> height and iron working was in its infancy. "

I bet London to a BRICK there was a GRINDING  STONE and a fire bucket
and a bucket of oil near EVERY battle in the ancient times so weapons
could be restored in a few minutes if damaged

A grindstone would me indispensable to RESHAPE damaged edges BACK to
their original style

THERE is now NIL doubt the " grinding stone I located in South
australia is INDEED a  genuine Bronze Age Artifact
http://www.***.com/
.
Thanks mate

kanga
======



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 05:51:52 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:
> I have sharpened MORE metal blades than you have had meals mate

> By hand ,  in the traditional way , steel on stone , every few
> minutes , every day for YEARS upon YEARS

 I've seen knifehands like you.
The only qualification they have as butchers is the way they butcher
their knives.
What ever happened to your 'experts' (in Australia they have 'experts'
who sharpen knives, grind shearing gear ect) in your freezing works..
If we add up all the years you claim to have worked here and there you
should have had a telegram from the Queen !


Wed, 21 Nov 2012 06:01:30 GMT
 How to sharpen a knife properly 2010CE , 2010 BCE

Quote:

> > I have sharpened MORE metal blades than you have had meals mate

> > By hand , ?in the traditional way , steel on stone , every few
> > minutes , every day for YEARS upon YEARS

> ?I've seen knifehands like you.

INDEED mate , EVERYBODY who starts work in a meat industry STARTS as a
knife hand

Some progress to be a learner slaughtermen , or a BUTCHER ,

 2 different trades mate

A learner slaughteman can eventually get a few days as a C grader
slaught

 , then a few days as a B Grade slaught and finall become an A GRADE
slaught
.
and the BEST A GRADE SLAUGHTERMAN normally ends up being VOTED in as
Union delegate for   the SHED ,  for all workers not just the
slaughterfloor , quite a bit job with 400 men and women seeking the
job

You mate have NEVER  met such a MAN have you mate , best pray to your
GOD you never do meet such a MAN mate

{*filter*} OFF GEORGIE BOY

Quote:
> The only qualification they have as butchers is the way they butcher
> their knives.

Real men dont mess with their knives EVER mate , fools last a week at
most on the slaughterfloors , they would never let you near the place

Quote:
> What ever happened to your 'experts' (in Australia they have 'experts'
> who sharpen knives, grind shearing gear ect) in your freezing works..

Never let ANYBODY touch my knives mate

Quote:
> If we add up all the years you claim to have worked here and there you
> should have had a telegram from the Queen !

its not HARD to work ou MY work history mate

unlike YOU I dont need to HIDE my true ID

MATE

Why not you simply {*filter*} ff now like a oood little kiddie fuker that
you are mate

crawl back under your rock

kanga
=====



Wed, 21 Nov 2012 06:20:24 GMT
 
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