Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ??? 
Author Message
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

I was in the store a few days ago looking for a new bottle of shampoo.
I picked up Almay, because I generally like the idea of products containing
a minimum of chemical crap, like coloring and scent.

Reading the label, I was surprised to see it contained hydrolysed animal
protein.  Protein is a big, stupid fad in shampoos.  Somehow, people have
gotten the idea that because hair is made of protein, that it is good for
the hair to put protein on it.  This is false, totally false.  The only
way that protein could benefit your hair would be if you drink the shampoo.

So, I'm wondering what source of protein they use?  "Hydrolysed animal
protein" could be leather scraps, fish tails, dried earwigs, or the brains
of scrapie-infected sheep!



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 05:08:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:
> I was in the store a few days ago looking for a new bottle of shampoo.
> Reading the label, I was surprised to see it contained hydrolysed animal
> protein.  Protein is a big, stupid fad in shampoos.  Somehow, people have
> gotten the idea that because hair is made of protein, that it is good for
> the hair to put protein on it.  This is false, totally false.

        While the marketing of shampoos and "hair conditioners" containing
a-keratins, collagen, casein, etc. is largely based upon hype, there is
some factual basis for the use of these ingredients in "conditioning"
and "stabilizing" the structure of hair.  So the point is, there is a
"grain of truth" for the inclusion of these substances in hair preparations.

        However, the actual *quantity* of these ingredients included in the
product is usually far less than that which is required for any efficacy.
If one examines the wording on a typical product label, there is usually
never any claim as to the quantity of the ingredient - only an ambiguous
statement like "Contains Keratin".

        The deception is NOT that the special ingredient has no efficacy,
but that the quantity contained within the product is insufficient for any
reasonable degree of efficacy.  My use of the word "deception" above may
be somewhat harsh, but such is the simple truth of much consumer product
marketing.

        Why not include an *effective* quantity of a substance such as
a-keratin?  Two reasons:

1.      These "special ingredients" are very expensive when compared to
        the basic ingredients in say, a shampoo.  The base formulation
        for a typical shampoo contains such ingredients as: one or more
        surfactants (ammonium lauryl sulfate, lauramide diethanolamine,
        etc.); a softener (polyethylene glycol); an emulsifier (hydroxypropyl
        methylcellulose); a detergent "enhancer" (citric acid); a foam
        inhibitor (sodium chloride); a pH adjusting agent (phosphoric acid);
        antibacterial and antifungal agents (methychloroisothiazolinone
        and methyl para-hydroxybenzoate); fragance; FDA-approved dye; and
        deionized water.

        The above ingredients may be used to produce a reasonably effective
        shampoo having a typical formulation cost of between 10 and 15 cents
        per pound (if this sounds low, don't forget water is still the primary
        constituent).  Adding enough a-keratin to be truly effective increases
        formulation cost by an order of magnitude.  Adding enough a-keratin
        to satisfy the FDA and FTC with respect to "truth in labeling" costs
        only a few cents.

2.      Cost issues notwithstanding, adding *effective* quanities of an
        ingredient such as a-keratin creates some significant product
        formulation problems with respect to undesired reactivity with the
        surfactants, overall product stability, product "appearance" and
        product "feel".

        I'll tell y'all a little "inside" story about consumer product
formulation and marketing which underscores the above.  I don't usually post
personal details to the Net, but I'll make an exception here.

        During the 1950's and 1960's my late father ran a family-owned
business which produced various soap and chemical specialty products.  The
most notable product (with which some Net readers may be familiar) is a
water-waterless hand cleaner known as "DL".  Revealed to the world for the
first time is the fact that "DL" was the initials of David Lippman. :-)

        When I was growing up during these years I spent many saturdays and
school vacation days at my father's plant in Buffalo, NY learning about the
soap and cosmetic industry.  When I was in high school, at various times I
actually ran the process equipment and formulated soap in 5,000 pound
batches.

        During the 1950's and 1960's "DL" (and many other soap products
of the era) were advertised as containing lanolin and hexachlorophene, with
lanolin being touted as a skin conditioner and hexachlorophene being touted
for its germicidal capability.  Of course, today, the use of hexachlorophene
is taboo, and the use of lanolin is no longer common.

        During the above years "DL" containers had a prominent label stating
that the product was "Fortified with Lanolin and Hexachlorophene"; however,
this label said *nothing* about quantity or efficacy of these ingredients.
In a typical year when I was in high school, say, 1960, "DL" production was
probably around 4 million pounds per year.  As I recall, there was a 5-pound
fiber container of hexachlorophene which lasted for almost *one year*.  The
hexachlorophene for each batch was so little that it was weighted on a piece
of filter paper and then dumped into a 1,000-gallon "oil-phase" mix tank.
Slightly more lanolin was used; a *single* heated 55-gallon drum (lanolin is
extremely viscous) supplied all of the lanolin necessary for at least six
month's of production.  Some simple arithmetic reveals that the percentage
composition of 500 pounds of lanolin in 2,000,000 pounds of product is
not very much.

        As one can see from the above example, the product was *truthfully*
advertised as containing lanolin and hexachlorophene, and these ingredients
were in fact formulated into the product.  However, no representation was
made as to the included quantity of these ingredients; the amount added was
large enough so as to be immune from any allegation of misrepresentation,
but nevertheless was small enough that no significant cost was added to the
product, and that quite frankly no significant benefit could be derived,
either.

        The above firsthand experience from many years ago serves to
illustrate what still takes place today in many types of consumer soap
and cosmetic products.

Quote:
> The only
> way that protein could benefit your hair would be if you drink the shampoo.

        Not true; there is some benefit from application of proteins,
although in reality there is usually not be enough protein ingredient in a
product to have any significant effect.

Quote:
> So, I'm wondering what source of protein they use?  "Hydrolysed animal
> protein" could be leather scraps, fish tails, dried earwigs, or the brains
> of scrapie-infected sheep!

        Animal hair, feathers, hooves and outer skin layers are comprised
of more than 95% a-keratins.  Tendons, ligaments, cartilage and bone marrow
contain large quanities of collagen.  Hydrolysis of such collagen results
in the formation of gelatin.  Remember that the next time you eat a gelatin
dessert, you are probably eating a dead horse.  Really. :-)


<> UUCP  {allegra|boulder|decvax|rutgers|watmath}!sunybcs!kitty!larry
<> TEL 716/688-1231 | 716/773-1700  {hplabs|utzoo|uunet}!/      \uniquex!larry
<> FAX 716/741-9635 | 716/773-2488      "Have you hugged your cat today?"



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 19:38:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???


Fri, 19 Jun 1992 00:00:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???
I would also like to know where the fat used to make soap comes from?
The brain is a fatty organ, is fat ever recovered from it for use in soap?

I can just imagine a pile of dried brains from scrapie-infected sheep
being crushed in a giant press to squeeze the fat out to make soap for people,
and the brain meal then being sent back to the sheep farm as animal food.

I certainly don't like the idea of smearing prions all over my body every
time I take a shower.  Maybe this is how people catch Creutzfeld-Jakob,
a disease so rare (about one case per million population) that contact
infection can be ruled out.



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 20:41:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:
> I would also like to know where the fat used to make soap comes from?

        I see where your question is leading, and I would like to immediately
point out that a significant number of soaps are produced with fats and
fatty acids which are derived from plants and NOT ANIMALS.

        Surfactants made from coconut oil, as an example, are very popular
these days; typical surfactants are lauramide diethanolamime (DEA) and
lauryl ammonium sulfate (look at the ingredient listing on a shampoo bottle,
and chances are you will see one or both of the above surfactants).  Other
common fatty acids of plant origin are palmitic acid (palm trees), myristic
acid (coconut and vegetables), linoleic acid (linseed, safflower and pine
trees), abietic acid (pine trees), etc.

        Stearic acid and oleic acid are the most common fatty acids used
in soap manufacture which are animal in origin.  Not surprisingly, one of
the largest producers of stearic acid and oleic acid is Armour & Company.

Quote:
> The brain is a fatty organ, is fat ever recovered from it for use in soap?

        It's possible, but the percentage of fat recovered from animal
brains is miniscule.

        Animal fat and fatty acids are extracted in a multi-stage process.
The first step consists of boiling skin, bones, feet, and non-edible internal
organs (offal) for about 10 hours in a closed vessel.  This boiling process
is called "rendering".  The fat floats to the top of the vessel where it
is skimmed off.  The skimmed fat is then filtered and heated in a closed
vessel for about another 10 hours at 250 deg F.  The resultant oil is
drawn off, filtered, and then stored at around 34 deg F for about two
weeks.  This last process is called "graining".  The resultant oil is
then filtered and further processed to form fatty acids, or cooking and
other oils through such processes as hydrogenation, interesterification and
isomerization.

Quote:
> I can just imagine a pile of dried brains from scrapie-infected sheep
> being crushed in a giant press to squeeze the fat out to make soap for people,
> and the brain meal then being sent back to the sheep farm as animal food.

        I have had the distinct displeasure of being in two different
rendering plants in past years.  If you had any conception of the process
from raw animal fat "input" to extracted fatty acid "output", you would
understand that there is NO WAY that any microorganism, or even the
structure of a non-living microorganism could survive the associated
chemical and mechanical processes.

Quote:
> I certainly don't like the idea of smearing prions all over my body every
> time I take a shower.  Maybe this is how people catch Creutzfeld-Jakob,
> a disease so rare (about one case per million population) that contact
> infection can be ruled out.

        Please.  This is utter nonsense.  End of discussion.


<> UUCP  {allegra|boulder|decvax|rutgers|watmath}!sunybcs!kitty!larry
<> TEL 716/688-1231 | 716/773-1700  {hplabs|utzoo|uunet}!/      \uniquex!larry
<> FAX 716/741-9635 | 716/773-2488      "Have you hugged your cat today?"



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 04:07:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:
>I would also like to know where the fat used to make soap comes from?
>The brain is a fatty organ, is fat ever recovered from it for use in soap?
>[...]

>I certainly don't like the idea of smearing prions all over my body every
>time I take a shower.  

I can't tell you where soap comes from, but I once worked very close to
the scrapie lab at UC San Francisco and expressed concern to one of
the professors over exposure to the slow virus (prion) thought to cause
the disease.

His response was that scrapie is a disease of sheep (which is named scrapie
because the sheep scrape off their skin) and that since shepherds have
been {*filter*}ing sheep for centuries and since no human has ever had
scrapie, don't worry.

I hope this makes you feel better.

                                          Randy



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 03:18:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???


Fri, 19 Jun 1992 00:00:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:
> in the formation of gelatin.  Remember that the next time you eat a gelatin
> dessert, you are probably eating a dead horse.  Really. :-)

Thanks a *lot*, Larry.  I used to like Jello. ;-)

--

            DSAC-AMB, Bldg. 27-6, P.O. Box 1605, Columbus, OH  43216-5002

Phone: (614) 238-9210   AUTOVON:  850-9210   Disclaimer claimed



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 19:02:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:


>> in the formation of gelatin.  Remember that the next time you eat a gelatin
>> dessert, you are probably eating a dead horse.  Really. :-)

>Thanks a *lot*, Larry.  I used to like Jello. ;-)

While we're on the subject of ruining foods for veggies, consider this: An
essential component of cheese is an enzyme derived from the stomachs of baby
calfs, which is used to begin the coagulation of milk to curds.


Mon, 19 Apr 1993 15:49:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

        I believe that the gelatin we eat is from cow bones. There are a lot
more dead cows than horses every year. The gelatin on some photographics films
is made from both horses and cows.

        Jeff Forbes



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 16:02:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:
>While we're on the subject of ruining foods for veggies, consider this: An
>essential component of cheese is an enzyme derived from the stomachs of baby
>calfs, which is used to begin the coagulation of milk to curds.

I thought renin was now made by genetically engineered microbes.

        Paul F. Dietz



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 17:03:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???
Quote:

>> in the formation of gelatin.  Remember that the next time you eat a gelatin
>> dessert, you are probably eating a dead horse.  Really. :-)

                                      ^^^^
I spose that's better than the alternative :)  

- Glen
--
Glen R. Sands  KA7AYF                    |

Vancouver, WA 98668    (206)253-5819     |    



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 15:53:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:

> While we're on the subject of ruining foods for veggies, consider this: An
> essential component of cheese is an enzyme derived from the stomachs of baby
> calfs, which is used to begin the coagulation of milk to curds.

Hmmmm. . . When I was down on the farm, the big problem with cream was
how to NOT make cheese out of it. Once it has 'clotted' (sometimes with
the help of clabber, like baking powder), drain the clear liquid (whey)
from the curds, and pack the curds in cheesecloth under pressure, and
you have cheese. Jews were among the first cheese makers, and as I
understand it mixing calf products (stomach lining) with milk violates
the " ...thou shalt not boil a calf in the mothers milk!" doctrine of
diet layed out in Leviticus.

        For what it's worth.

                Random   (Cherokee Nation will return...)



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 21:44:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:
>> in the formation of gelatin.  Remember that the next time you eat a gelatin

<> dessert, you are probably eating a dead horse.  Really. :-)
<Thanks a *lot*, Larry.  I used to like Jello. ;-)

There are some plant-derived gelatinous substances.  An example that is
familiar to people in chemical and biological sciences is the substance
called agar.  Perhaps Jello is really made of agar.  Perhaps you can
pretend that is is agar.  (Or perhaps you can still make your kids eat
it if you tell them it is agar (you know, in the same fashion you tell
them that a plate of chopped-up bunny rabbits is really a plate of burnt
chicken nuggets).)  :-)

% def agar

agar ('{a:}g-.{a:}r) agar-a..gar
(.{a:}g-.{a:}r-'{a:}g-.{a:}r) Etymology: Malay i[agar-agar]
1) n, a gelatinous colloidal extractive of a red alga (as of the
   genera i[Gelidium], i[Gracilaria], and i[Eucheuma])
   used esp. in culture media or as a gelling and stabilizing agent in
   foods
2) n, a culture medium containing agar

--
/*------------------------------------------------------------------------*\

\*------------------------------------------------------------------------*/



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 19:04:00 GMT
 Protein in Shampoo, What Is It ???

Quote:


}> in the formation of gelatin.  Remember that the next time you eat a gelatin
}> dessert, you are probably eating a dead horse.  Really. :-)
}
}Thanks a *lot*, Larry.  I used to like Jello. ;-)

As far as I know, Jello(tm) is considered both kosher and pareve.  That
means it contains no meat and, certainly, no horse.

Enjoy. (-:

--

Citicorp(+)TTI                                                 Carborundum
3100 Ocean Park Blvd.   (213) 452-9191, x2483
Santa Monica, CA  90405 {csun|philabs|psivax}!ttidca!hollombe



Mon, 19 Apr 1993 01:51:00 GMT
 
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